I've spent probably around $2000 on parts for my new AMD based PC gaming system. It took me a week to physically put it all together due to only having one night off a week (USPS slave and I sleep most of my one day off) and lots of issues with space and clearance and bad CPU cooler design (I'm looking at you AMD Wraith Max).
The CPU cooler latch isn't locked because it would probably snap off and possibly damage the CPU/motherboard from the force if I did. I should have heeded the very bad reviews of it. To me, it basically appears to be incompatible with AM4 motherboards. The latch on the cooler is not physically long enough to reach the hook on the motherboard. I had to unscrew the hook from the motherboard, put the latch on it, and then try to screw it back in which took hours.
It's supposedly an E-ATX compatible case, but the rubber cable grommets don't line up with the ports on the motherboard and there is barely any room between the end of the motherboard and the cable grommets and barely any room between components. The 90 degree right angle motherboard power connector was a huge pain in the ass to deal with. That's an absolutely terrible design that serves no functional purpose. I could barely bend the power cable enough to get it attached. I had to run it through one of the bottom cable grommets because the ones beside the connector don't allow enough clearance to bend it enough.
- Case: Corsair Air 540 (E-ATX compatible supposedly...)
- MOBO: Asus Crosshair VI Extreme
- CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1800X
- CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Max (worst designed cooler ever made by man)
- GPU: XFX Vega 64 LC (don't ask how much it cost me lol)
- RAM: 16GB 8x2 G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 3600 (15-15-15-35 timings)
- PSU: Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 1000W
- UPS: CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System (1500VA/900W)
- SSD: 500GB Samsung 850 Evo (from old build)
- HDD: 500GB Western Digital 7200RPM (from old build)
- Blu-Ray Drive/Burner: Pioneer BDR207-DBK
- Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 310
- Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB
So, I took my SSD out of my old system and attached it to my new one. It has a validated copy of Windows 10 on it which I got through the free upgrade offer when it was still going. I own a Windows 7 Home DVD for backup. I also put the old Blu-Ray/DVD/CD drive into my new system.
I was hoping things would go smoothly for once, but of course they aren't. When I turn the system on it goes to the BIOS. From there, I've tried to boot to Windows, but it doesn't work. It just goes straight back to the BIOS no matter what I do.
So when that didn't work I tried installing Windows 7. However, when it gets to the first installation screen my keyboard and mouse turn off and stop working. I tried using the USB 2.0 ports on the rear panel, but they didn't work either.
I've spent days fiddling with BIOS settings to get this to work, but nothing does and I'm about to give up. I'm planning on taking it to Geek Squad or some other local computer repair shop. I'm really upset about this situation because I've spent so much money on it.
https://imgur.com/a/2upmW I don't know why it says 3 keyboards. The motherboard has 4 power connectors and I've connected two of them. The 8 pin near the CPU and the big one on the right side. There is a 4 pin near the CPU and some kind of "EZ Plug" on the bottom. The manual doesn't offer any guidance for these two extra connectors. The RAM appears to be set to run at 2133MHz by default.
The BIOS is 0401.
I've spent probably around $2000 on parts for my new AMD based PC gaming system. It took me a week to physically put it all together due to only having one night off a week (USPS slave and I sleep most of my one day off) and lots of issues with space and clearance and bad CPU cooler design (I'm looking at you AMD Wraith Max).The CPU cooler latch isn't locked because it would probably snap off and possibly damage the CPU/motherboard from the force if I did. I should have heeded the very bad reviews of it. To me, it basically appears to be incompatible with AM4 motherboards. The latch on the cooler is not physically long enough to reach the hook on the motherboard. I had to unscrew the hook from the motherboard, put the latch on it, and then try to screw it back in which took hours.It's supposedly an E-ATX compatible case, but the rubber cable grommets don't line up with the ports on the motherboard and there is barely any room between the end of the motherboard and the cable grommets and barely any room between components. The 90 degree right angle motherboard power connector was a huge pain in the ass to deal with. That's an absolutely terrible design that serves no functional purpose. I could barely bend the power cable enough to get it attached. I had to run it through one of the bottom cable grommets because the ones beside the connector don't allow enough clearance to bend it enough.Case: Corsair Air 540 (E-ATX compatible supposedly...)MOBO: Asus Crosshair VI ExtremeCPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1800XCPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Max (worst designed cooler ever made by man)GPU: XFX Vega 64 LC (don't ask how much it cost me lol)RAM: 16GB 8x2 G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 3600 (15-15-15-35 timings)PSU: Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium 1000WUPS: CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System (1500VA/900W)SSD: 500GB Samsung 850 Evo (from old build)HDD: 500GB Western Digital 7200RPM (from old build)Blu-Ray Drive/Burner: Pioneer BDR207-DBKMouse: SteelSeries Rival 310Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGBSo, I took my SSD out of my old system and attached it to my new one. It has a validated copy of Windows 10 on it which I got through the free upgrade offer when it was still going. I own a Windows 7 Home DVD for backup. I also put the old Blu-Ray/DVD/CD drive into my new system.I was hoping things would go smoothly for once, but of course they aren't. When I turn the system on it goes to the BIOS. From there, I've tried to boot to Windows, but it doesn't work. It just goes straight back to the BIOS no matter what I do.So when that didn't work I tried installing Windows 7. However, when it gets to the first installation screen my keyboard and mouse turn off and stop working. I tried using the USB 2.0 ports on the rear panel, but they didn't work either.I've spent days fiddling with BIOS settings to get this to work, but nothing does and I'm about to give up. I'm planning on taking it to Geek Squad or some other local computer repair shop. I'm really upset about this situation because I've spent so much money on it.http://ift.tt/2DRHbIJ I don't know why it says 3 keyboards. The motherboard has 4 power connectors and I've connected two of them. The 8 pin near the CPU and the big one on the right side. There is a 4 pin near the CPU and some kind of "EZ Plug" on the bottom. The manual doesn't offer any guidance for these two extra connectors. The RAM appears to be set to run at 2133MHz by default.The BIOS is 0401. http://ift.tt/eA8V8J
http://ift.tt/2Bej5Fs